Ungaro Men’s S/S23 – Paris Fashion Week.
This men's collection for Spring-Summer 2023 is inspired by the atmosphere of Western Africa. Tanger, Fez, Timbuktu, Hoggar and Shamonea are among the cities surrounded by the Sahara desert. During the Maghrib period, Islamic art and architecture flourished and was distinguished by a mystical quality to the drawing of Berber symbols and signs as Arabs, who first arrived in the region, brought motifs and a rich Islamic heritage to the region a century ago. Combined with local ancestral craft, the wild nature and the vegetable world combined with urban wardrobe codes that make up its DNA for its menswear, Ungaro House is renowned. For the prints, the Artistic Director for the menswear, Philippe Paubert, was inspired by the symbols and signs traditionally found in pottery, textiles, carved or painted wood, leather works, jewelry and amulets. Chemical paints are replaced by natural dyes. The dense repetitive geometric patterns typical of North African ceramics and rugs are reproduced on the new printed fabric for the lining of the suits and jackets. Floral and vegetal prints, re-worked camouflage, checked raw linens, seersuckers and other textured fabrics infuse the ethnic within a modern wardrobe. Sensuality is given by the natural tones (beige, chalk, carbon) which enhance the contrasts in the silhouettes. A warmer palette mixes the military khakis, the light oranges and the safari tones. Chocolate browns are associated with touches of purple, lilac and natural neutral colors. For the sportswear items, the collection is a reinterpretation of adventurer and safari men pieces in updated technical materials. The new logo introduced by the House with the Summer 2023 collections with a graphic butterfly inspired from the Couture archives is lightly introduced on some details and on the linings.